Finally Got Heat Shield for my Semi-Automatic UZI Carbine

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It took me about 10 months, but I finally got the Heat Shield that I wanted for my UZI build through Title Arms.  It is worth every penny. I still plan to get the SBR so I can put the original sized UZI barrel on it. But until then I have this.

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At the gun range with the UZI with Heat Shield in it’s violin case

I wrote an article here about building your own semi automatic UZI.  It has the 16inch barrel, because I have yet to SBR it and use the full auto length barrel. It looks strange. So I found the Title Arms page around a year ago.  It took me several emails and 10 months before it was finally in stock. I ordered it and it arrived a few days later.  It looks like a real silencer.  It is not. It is only a heat shield. It gives the UZI a much better look. Price is around $140 plus shipping. They have several other types of heat shields and also metal folding stock at http://www.titleiiarms.com.

Happy New Year/Year End Review

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We had a good year.. well it was only two months ago that I started this blog. Thanks everyone for visiting and commenting on the articles here or on one of the social media’s sites that we publish to.

Gun Owners had a good year for most part unless you live in California, New York or CT. If you live in one of these Police States, then I recommend you move.

The rest of America lost more freedoms as Obama continues to convert Americna into a Police State. Here’s hoping that American’s will wake-up in 2014.

I hope everyone has a Happy and Safe New Year.  If you are going out and not drinking, it might be a good night make sure that you are carrying tonight.  There will probably be many  Drunk maniacs out on New Years Eve. Stay Stafe

TOP POSTS OF THE YEAR

The following were the three most popular posts here on http://www.crypticpunk.com

1)  Eyewitness to Hitler Warns: “Keep Your Guns and Buy More Guns”
2)  Building the Fully Legal Semi Automatic UZI Carbine
3)  It is time to create a registry of all people that want to ban guns

See you next year.

Freddy

I received the UZI violin case

For new people to the blog, I did a series on how to built your own fully legal UZI carbine.  You can see the complete instructions here.

I found a series of cases from AKcases, and ordered one off their ebay site for $175. They are normally $245 and they have them for many different styles of guns. I just received the case. Here is the violin case closed:

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Here is the case open. The case comes with either a red or blue interior. I chose blue.

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And finally here the case with the UZI carbine, I made during the build:

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The Velcro strips hold both the gun and up to 8 magazines. The interior and exterior is very good quality.

I highly recommend this case. The only problem is this case, looks just like my kid’s actual violin case, it

pretty embarrassing ( and highly illegal) if he took the wrong case to school. So I can’t leave this outside the gun room.

Building the Semi-Automatic UZI -Part 6 of 6 Test firing the UZI

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See parts 1-5 for instructions to source the parts and built your own Fully Legal semi-automatic UZI carbine I was delayed almost two weeks because of bad weather and a one week business trip, before I could take my new fun toy to the outdoor range and test it.

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Above of pictures taken during the first firing of the finished Semi Automatic Uzi Carbine at the local gun range.

So my son and I took the completed UZI to the local gun range and we finally got to see if it would work. The UZI takes a little while to get used to, because of the grip safety.  This is the only gun I own that has a grip safety. So you have to push in the grip safety completely while you pull the trigger or nothing will happen.

I loaded the magazine, engaged the safety and the gun fired perfectly. This video below is a video of the actual first time, the gun has been fired.

There are 5 posts under the category Building the Uzi that explain where to get the receiver and parts and how to put them together. It has been a fun build and it did not take much skill other than to figure out how the parts went together.  I am completely happy with the build and I might even do it again and build a UZI pistol next time.

If you build yourself one from these directions, let me know if I missed anything.

Thanks and enjoy  Freddy

Building the Semi Automatic Uzi – Part 5 of 6 : Bolt and Final Assembly

See Parts 1 through 4 for the steps that need to be done, before you finish the build in this post.

Install the Folding Stock and Retaining Bolt.

The stock needs to be installed now before you install the bolt. Because the retaining bolt sits behind bolt and buffer block.

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The round part of the retainer nut, hangs out the back of upper receiver.

Here is the stock I used. There several types of metal and wooden stocks available. You may have to use a wooden stock with this gun, depending on gun laws in your state.  In my state, I can use anything.e an

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Look at the back of the Uzi upper receiver. This is a round hole.  You put the retainer inside the upper receiver and it will stick out a little bit. You now take the stock and align it with the back of the receiver and you can insert the bolt and screw through the hole at the back of the receiver into the retainer bolt.  You need to keep pressure on the retainer nut, while you screw in the bolt.

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Once hand tightened, you need a allen/hex bit or driver to completely tighten the stock.  Once the bolt has been completely tightened, you can fold the stock under the receiver.

Assemble the Striker

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The 3 holes in the different pieces must line up.

Take the black cylinder with a ridge on the end of it and insert it to the striker as shown above.  Not the holes in the black cylinder, the striker assembly and the firing pin itself. You must line up those holds and then inert the pin through all three items in order to hold it in place. Then insert the firing pin spring on the black cylinder.  The spring slides over the black cylinder.

Here is what the Striker looks like when it is finished.

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assembled striker

Recoil Spring

The recoil spring is a large spring that will push the bolt back forward again to load another bullet and cock the action.

When you buy it separately or in a parts kit, it comes with a hard cardboard tab at the end of the spring. Very carefully cut the cardboard off without damaging the spring.

Here it is before

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And after you cut off the orange brown tab.

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Install Extractor into the bolt assembly

Here are the extractor and the pin that holds in in the bolt

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extractor and pin

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bolt and pin alignment

You can tell which end of bolt that the extractor is installed into but located the hole on the side of the bolt for extractor retaining pin. Then slide the bolt into the bolt assembly. Line up the notch in the extra to the hold and push the retaining pin in.

After the extractor is installed the inside of the bolt should look like this:

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extractor position

Installing the Blocking Latch

The blocking latch prevents (or at least reduces) the possibility of having a round go off out of battery. If the round doesn’t chamber properly for any reason (bad ammo, dirty gun,…).  the a small spring and a small pin hold it in place. The spring and latch look like this:

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latch and spring

It is inserted into the rear of the bolt assembly into a next to where the extractor was inserted.  Here is a diagram of the locations where the extractor and the blocking latch are inserted into the bolt.

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Bolt assembly

Striker and Bolt

Put the striker spring on the opposite side of the firing pin on the black clyinder. Then insert the  large recoil spring in the round hold in the rear center of the bolt.  It will look like this:

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striker into bolt

Twist the striker assembly so the black lever fits into the groove on the right side of the bolt.

Here is a closeup of the two components fitting together.

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closeup striker into bolt

Take the black buffer block and position it so the recoil spring goes in the hold at the top and the striker spring does into the larger hole at the bottom.

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completely assembled bolt, striker, and buffer

Be careful with the whole assembly, it is not fixed together. The components will fall apart if you are not careful.

Now you take the whole assembly and insert it ,buffer block first into the back of the receiver.  You will have to compress the spring by compressing the bolt towards the buffer block.  The buffer block will slip mostly out of site under the top cover catch and rear site assembly.  It will look like this.

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bolt in gun

Once the buffer block is in place under the rear site/top latch, keep compressing the spring until the whole block fits into the receiver.

Now you can put the top cover on.  You will have to push the top cover latch back to put the top cover on. Then release it and it should spring forward and hold the top cover on.

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top cover

Joining the top Receiver and the Bottom receiver

The bottom of the top receiver has a hole with a tab on the front of the bottom receiver will fit into.  Here’s the bottom of the receiver. I have circled in red the areas where the bottom receiver/pistol stick will attach to:

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where lower attaches

So take the bottom  receiver/pistol grip stick and a angle and try to get the tab to fut into the opening (red circled).

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lower into upper

Once you have the bottom part inserted into the tab of the upperpart, then push the bottom towards the upper until it touches.

Then a pin mm is inserted through one side of upper, through the lower and out of the other side of the upper. Use a rubber hammer to push the pin through The hole win the pin is inserted is circled in red in the picture below.

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Here’s the pin

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Try to Dry Fire it

Once the pin is installed, you are done, the built is complete. You can now test to see if the components are properly installed by pulling back on the cocking handle on the top cover, then releasing it.

Now try to dry fire it by simultaneously holding the grip safety and pulling the trigger.  If it goes click, then you are mostly likely ready to test it with blanks or real bullets.  If it does not dry fire, you may have to take the upper and lowers apart and the top cover off to inspect the fit of the parts, or to see if there is something impeding the bolt or the trigger.

Here is my finished semi-automatic UZI Carbine. In my final post, I am taking the gun to the range and will have pictures and video of the first time we shoot it.

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UZI Build Complete

Building the Semi Automatic Uzi : Part 3 of 6 : Painting

See Part1 and Part 2 Painting the Receivers In previous steps, I gave you the links on where to buy the fully welded and ready to go receiver and a completion kit that contained the parts you needed to build the Uzi.  In this part, I go into surface prep for the receiver and pistol grip.

The McKay Receiver came unfinished and looked like this:

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receiver in natural steel

And the Pistol Grip lower receiver was used and looked beat up: before-paint

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So I found some NITROCELLULOUSE GUN COATING: at D+D Sales for $14 a can. One can would do several complete uzis. Here are the specs:

  1. Bonds to aluminum or steel
  2. No baking required:
  3. Ready for assembly in 1 (one) hour.
  4. 1 hr – Very High Resistance to gasoline and oil.
  5. Paint Receiver, individual parts, and barrel. Thin coating allows painting inside the receiver and all other gun parts. Use single coat on internal parts or 2 light  coats to allow free operation of parts. Use multiple thin coats for best results, where binding of parts is not a concern.
  6. Post application temperature tolerance 250 degrees.
  7. For optimum bonding sand blast before painting or sand and clean with course steel wool and clean with lacquer thinner before painting.
  8. IF SAND BLASTING IS NOT POSSIBLE: CLEAN WITH course steel wool and Acid wash with DILUTE muratic acid (HCL hydrochloric acid), (Pool acid). Dilute to 1/5; (Some bubbling will occur; remove after 15 minutes.
  9. CAUTION:Do not breath fumes and use Rubber Gloves. Very hazardous if inhaled and it smells pretty bad.

Here is the receiver after several light coats. black Here is the pistol grip/lower receiver with the paint still wet. I had to take all the parts off  to paint it. wetpaint If your Uzi Cover is beat up, you probably want to take that apart and paint that as well. Magazine Catch, Semi Automatic Sear, Trigger and grip safety Assembly This diagram should help you assemble the rest of the internals and grip safety. stick Put the mag catch on first. The order you assemble the rest of the components have to be in this order, otherwise they don’t fit.

  1. Grip Safety, and spring. Attaches in the rear.
  2. Selector button and lever and spring. on the side of the stick
  3. Sear and pin. Inside the front of the receiver part.
  4. Trigger and pins. Near the front
  5. Grip and screws. On the outside of the stick.
  6. Now you have a completed lower receiver pistol stick.

The next chapter will cover assembly the upper Uzi receiver.